Where to Stay, Eat, and Wander in Portugal’s Underrated Wine Country
You hear “Portugal” and your brain probably goes straight to Lisbon’s tiled facades, pastel de nata in hand, or the Douro Valley’s terraced vineyards unfurling down to the river. Fair. They’re beautiful, they deserve the spotlight. But tucked away just a couple hours inland from Porto, you’ll find a region that’s quietly doing something special—and still flying almost entirely under the radar.
Welcome to the Dão region, Portugal’s lesser-known but deeply rewarding wine country. It’s moody, mountainous, full of granite soil and aging tradition, and it’s where some of the country’s most elegant red wines are being made right now.
There’s no flashy wine train here, no cruise ships coasting by. Instead, think rugged hills, centuries-old estates, and a kind of soulful hospitality you don’t get in places polished for tourism. This is wine country with stories in the walls—and usually a winemaker nearby who’ll pour you a glass while telling them.
Let’s break it down: where to stay, what to eat, what to sip, and the slow adventures in between that make the Dão worth seeking out.
Where to Stay: Vineyard Villas and Under-the-Radar Estates
You won’t find sprawling resort hotels here (thankfully), but what Dão does offer is even better—quintas, or family-owned wine estates, many of which have converted old farmhouses and manor homes into cozy, design-forward guest stays.
The Dão wine region lies in a mountainous landscape, where vineyards thrive on granite-rich soil at elevations ranging from 200 to 1,000 meters—often tucked among pine forests that shape the terrain.
Quinta da Taboadella (Santar)
This place manages to strike that rare balance between old-world charm and modern design. The estate dates back to Roman times, and the wines are structured, precise, and quietly powerful—very much like the architecture of the winery itself. If you stay here, you’ll wake up to vineyard views and likely get a private tasting with someone who knows the vines by name.
Casa de São Lourenço (Serra da Estrela)
If you don’t mind being a little outside the main wine zone, this boutique hotel is perched above the clouds in the Serra da Estrela mountains. It's all natural wool, mid-century design, and panoramic windows that make you forget time exists. Bonus: there’s a Burel wool factory on-site, and they serve exceptional food with serious Portuguese wine pairings.
Montebelo Mosteiro de Alcobaça Historic Hotel (Viseu)
An old monastery turned luxury stay. It’s got gravitas, a story in every hallway, and the kind of stillness that makes you want to write a novel—or just nap and drink red wine in a robe. Either works.
Triptuition:
Ask yourself what you really want from this trip. To check off vineyards, or to actually sit still and let a glass of Touriga Nacional teach you something about patience?
What (and Where) to Drink: Wines That Don’t Shout
Dão wines aren’t flashy. They’re not built for Instagram reels or cocktail menus. These are wines for the long game—structured reds, often aged in oak, made from grapes like Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Jaen (known as Mencía in Spain). You’ll also find bright, mineral-driven whites made from Encruzado, a varietal that deserves far more global attention than it gets.
Where to Sip:
- Cabriz Wine House (Carregal do Sal): Easy to find, approachable for first-timers, with great food and an outdoor tasting patio.
- Quinta dos Roques (Abrunhosa do Mato): Family-owned, award-winning, and very under-touristed. Their reds are a masterclass in balance and aging potential.
- Quinta de Lemos (Silgueiros): A bit higher-end, with a sleek restaurant on-site. Worth it for the view and the food-wine pairings alone.
Trip Tale:
At Quinta dos Roques, the winemaker’s son showed up mid-tasting and started pouring unmarked bottles. “This one’s my father’s favorite,” he said, then paused. “But don’t tell him I said that.” We talked for an hour, and I left with six bottles and zero regrets.
Where to Eat: Rustic Plates, Bold Flavors, and Zero Pretension
The food in Dão is hearty, slow-cooked, and meant to meet the wines where they are. There’s a lot of roasted goat, bacalhau (salted cod), wild mushrooms, and local sheep cheeses. Meals here are usually long, often shared, and almost always paired with whatever the house wine is—which is nearly always excellent.
Top Spots to Bookmark:
- Mesa de Lemos (Silgueiros): Fine dining without the fuss. The chef here has serious chops, and the tasting menu is inventive while still anchored in Portuguese flavor.
- O Cortiço (Viseu): Classic local joint with zero tourist polish and the best roasted kid (cabrito) I’ve ever had. Ask what’s good that day—they’ll tell you straight.
- Tasquinha da Quinta (Tonda): Hidden gem near Tondela. Locals swear by their octopus rice and house-made sausages. You’re basically eating in someone’s extended kitchen.
Trip Trick:
Lunch is the real deal here—many restaurants close after 3 p.m., so aim for a long, wine-laced midday meal and go light at dinner with cheese, bread, and a bottle back at your stay.
Where to Wander: Slower Roads, Silent Views, and Actual Solitude
Dão is built for slow exploration. The roads wind through pine forests, olive groves, and granite villages that look unchanged in a hundred years. The pace is gentle. The people are warm without being overbearing. And there are plenty of “stop the car” moments that don’t exist on TripAdvisor.
Worthwhile Wanders:
- Santar Vila Jardim: This historic village is being slowly restored through a wine-and-garden project spearheaded by local families and architects. Expect artfully layered gardens, low stone walls, and old houses that seem to hum with quiet dignity.
- Viseu: The city itself is a good home base. It’s walkable, full of tiled facades, and home to a surprisingly good museum scene. Don’t miss Grão Vasco Museum if you’re into Renaissance art, or just wander the cobbled streets with a galão (Portuguese coffee) in hand.
- Serra da Estrela Natural Park: Not quite wine country, but close enough for a day trip. This is Portugal’s highest mountain range, and the air up here hits differently. You’ll find glacial valleys, wool artisans, and traditional shepherd villages where time moves as slowly as the clouds.
Triptuition:
If you find yourself hurrying from one spot to the next, stop. That’s not what this place is for. Dão rewards the ones who linger.
A Few Logistics (Because Smart Travel Is Still Good Travel)
- Getting There: Fly into Porto. From there, rent a car—it’s about 90 minutes to Viseu, the best home base for exploring the region. Trains are limited, and you’ll want the freedom to explore the vineyards and villages without relying on taxis.
- When to Go: Late spring (May/June) and early fall (September/October) are ideal. Harvest season offers a deeper look at winemaking, but shoulder seasons give you space and soft light.
- Language: English is spoken more than you might expect in wineries and hotels, but knowing a few Portuguese basics goes a long way.
- Pace Yourself: This is not a region built for the five-wineries-a-day hustle. Do two tastings a day, max. Eat long lunches. Nap if you feel like it. Let the wine do what it’s made to do—slow you down.
Final Pour: Why Dão Is Worth Your Time
If you’re the kind of traveler who likes your destinations a little under-polished, a little off-beat, and fully rooted in place, Dão is your kind of wine country.
It’s not trying to impress you. It doesn’t have to. The wines are soulful, the food is deeply local, and the landscapes ask you to look twice—and then maybe stay awhile.
Portugal has plenty of regions where you can sip and swirl, and snap pics. But here, you get something else: space to connect with the people and the process behind the glass. And that, more than the perfect pour, is what makes a wine region unforgettable.
Don’t book back-to-back wine tours. Instead, book one, then find a local tavern and talk to someone behind the counter. The best recommendation you’ll get all day is usually off-script.
For years, Miles roamed the highways of the U.S. and Europe, exploring mountains, forests, and backroads that most people only dream of. His adventure-packed stories will have you ready to ditch your day job and hit the open road.
Miles Dawson, Writer, The Wild Wanderer